Over my 14-year-old perfumery history, I have met a lot of expensive and exquisitely sounding oriental and woody aromas. Among the "flower family", I was also lucky to get acquainted with the amazingly beautiful perfumes. But with fresh citrus flavors I was always lucky much less: about 90% of them sounded quite flat and inexpressive on me, or they carried away with lightning speed almost from the first breath, but quickly got bored later. In an unsuccessful search for "perfect freshness" for myself, at some point I almost completely switched to perfumes, perhaps of the most "male" family - aromatic. And among the aromas of this family, I made many interesting discoveries, but I cannot but note that all the perfumes I liked were masculine. I calmed down on them ... And then, one day, I found something that I was so lacking: fresh, citrus-floral but, at the same time, a flat, feminine aroma with spicy notes and without any fruit in the pyramid !:) A find for me became Escale a Pondichery Christian Dior released back in 2009, and I still can’t understand only one thing: how did I go about this miracle for almost three years ?!
Full title: Christian Dior Cruise Collection Escale a Pondichery eau de toilette
Description from the manufacturer and the pyramid: “In search of natural ingredients for Dior perfume, Francois Demachy went to India and found his inspiration - tea. His delicate and refined aroma is the perfumer’s embodiment of the very idea of distant wanderings. To best convey all the aromatic nuances of this drink, the perfumer opted for black tea extract, the aroma of which gives a sensation of refined freshness. The leading batch of black tea includes chords of other plant extracts - cardamom essence, sandalwood essence, absolute Smin Sambak, conveying the spirit of overseas wanderings. "
Top notes: Grapefruit, cardamom essence.
Heart notes: Black tea extract, absolute jasmine sambac.
Base: Sandalwood essence.
Fragrance Family: citrus. Variety: flower citrus.
The year of publishing: year 2009. The author of the fragrance: Francois Demachy.
My opinion: I note that the majority of aromatic and citrus flavors on cold and windy days sound deadly sharp and aggressive on me. Escale a Pondichery is not like this: in the cold early spring of St. Petersburg it opens up with surprisingly subtle and intelligent - chilled black tea with cardamom. So this very tea is imagined: in a tall glass, with ice cubes and with a straw :) And I immediately want to go straight to the summer. And even better - on vacation, and, preferably, in hot countries. Yes, here in the same India, whose port name was called Escale a Pondichery. The creator of the fragrance, François Demachy, has a charming port city on the shores of the Bay of Bengal associated with delicate spices, tea leaves and languid sambac jasmine. This is not the kind of India that imagination usually draws for me. Not a motley, noisy and endlessly contrasting country of my dreams. "India Demashi" preserved the features of the former French colony: it has enough chic and gloss of the good old Europe, but piquant notes of spices, tart - black tea and viscously sweet - sambac jasmine, (one of whose names, by the way, sounds like Indian jasmine), remind that the fragrance is dedicated to India.
Escale a Pondichery opens with the almost frosty freshness of grapefruit, but in just a few minutes a special chord becomes distinct. Spicy - sweet cardamom, the most Indian in essence, after black pepper, spice comes to the fore. A cardamom symphony sounds from my skin for a total of about half an hour.
And after this time, the notes of the heart begin to emerge. Tea. Black tea. Its rich, rich, tart aroma as if envelops, fills with harmony and peace the whole world around me. Immediately there is a temptation to postpone all seemingly urgent matters for later :) You just want to enjoy this harmony and beauty that suddenly permeates the entire surrounding space. Notes of jasmine sambac are woven into the tea canvas, but not the role of the first violin in the heart of the fragrance is assigned to jasmine. The leitmotif of Escale a Pondichery is, after all, tea, and the stupefying sweet sambac sounds only in the background; it adds femininity, warmth and mankind to the aroma, but at the same time it does not lead to excessive flowery and sweetness. The heart of Escale a Pondichery is an exceptionally good balance of tea astringency and jasmine languor. The very essence of the fragrance, its notes of the heart, sound from my skin for about three hours - now subsiding, now becoming more distinct.
And in the base of Escale a Pondichery reigns the essence of sandalwood. Thick, saturated, warming, almost balsamic. And no, praise Francois Demachy, musk in the loop !:) For several hours in a row I feel this magical woody chord. He is quiet and unobtrusive, he does not fill himself with everything around him. He is like a sweet whisper in the ear: audible only to the mistress of the fragrance and to someone who is in her personal space; )
In total, I feel Escale a Pondichery from my skin for about 5 hours in a row. Then it gradually calms down and at some point I can no longer catch it. Well, for a conditionally summer, citrus-floral aroma of 5 hours - a good result, honestly (I say this contrary to the established opinion about the fragility of perfumes from the "cruise collection"). It is also encouraging that, unlike Escale a Portofino, with whom I spent almost the entire summer of 2008, Escale a Pondichery has a loop aroma. This circumstance is an undoubted plus of it. Well, and yes, personally on my skin Pondicherry is more resistant and not as straightforward as Portofino. But come on, I don’t feel like comparing these two flavors. Each of them is good in its own way and both of them definitely deserve attention.
I will never call Escale a Pondichery a masterpiece of modern perfumery :) It would be an exaggeration, despite all my sympathy for the fragrance. But, nevertheless, it compares very favorably with most fresh, citrus-floral perfumes, whose aromas, with the onset of warm days, literally soak through the streets of large and small cities. Escale a Pondichery is a rare synthesis of freshness and specialty, fleeting bitterness and careful sweetness. This would seem to be a combination of incongruous. Can spices be refreshing? They can, says François Demachy and create his "little India," his "Stop at Pondicherry."
Escale a Pondichery and Escale a Portofino, which was released a year earlier, the first fragrance of the Dior cruise collection, are two completely different, in essence, perfumes. The first is cheerful citrus, crystal clear and fresh, the second is fresh - spicy, enveloping and meditative. And in 2010, François Demachy created the third fragrance of the “cruise collection”, this time dedicated to the Marquesas Islands - Escale aux Marquises. The trip to French Polynesia is woven from notes of red orange, tiara, ginger, elemi, nutmeg, cinnamon and pink pepper and it has nothing to do with its predecessors - Portofino and Pondicherry.
This I say that it is not worth comparing the aromas of the "cruise collection" - this is ungrateful and an unhelpful task (as, indeed, comparing perfumes, in general). You just need to choose what is closest to you and enjoy. And whatever your choice, the Escale series will not disappoint you, anyway. After all, she is a collection of the best essays for warm summer and spring days from the house of Dior.
Cost: 75 ml bottle will cost 3465 rubles in stores of the Rive Gauche network without taking into account any discounts; On a gold card, aroma can be purchased for 2598 rubles.
Rating: 5 +++ and nothing else :)
Thank you for your attention to my story.
My name is Vladislav (or better, just Vlad).
Watch the video: Escale A Portofino Perfume by Christian Dior Review (February 2020).